Use of active extracts to improve the appearance of skin, lips, hair and/or nails

ABSTRACT

There is provided a composition having at least one of the following active extracts  Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenoloma chusana , or any combinations thereof. There is also provided a composition having at least one of the following additional extracts  Azadirachta indica, Glycyrrhiza glabra linn., Morinda citrifolia , tomato glycolipid or any combinations thereof in combination with one or more of the active extracts. The compositions and methods of the invention are effective to improve the aesthetic appearance of skin, lips, hair and/or nails, especially by lightening the skin, lips, hair and/or nails.

RELATED APPLICATIONS

This is a continuation-in-part application that claims priority to, andthe benefits of, co-pending U.S. patent application Ser. No. 10/321,706,filed Dec. 17, 2002.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to topical compositions having an activeingredient naturally or synthetically derived from a plant or plantmaterial. More particularly, the present invention relates to topicalcompositions that improve the appearance of skin, lips, hair and/ornails, especially by lightening the skin, lips, hair, and/or nails. Mostparticularly, the present invention relates to biologically activeextracts for improving the aesthetic appearance of, especially bylightening, the skin, lips, hair, and/or nails.

2. Description of the Related Art

Consumers constantly seek to improve the appearance of their hair, skin,lips and nails. There is a need for products that effectively lightenand reduce pigmentation in the hair, skin, lips and nails. Commonapplications for such products include, for example, bleachinghyperpigmented hair, skin, lips and/or nails; reducing age spots;evening or optimizing skin discoloration; improving the appearance ofdark circles under the eyes; treating melasma, cholasma, freckles,after-burn scars, and post-injury hyperpigmentation; bleaching hair onthe scalp, legs, face, and other areas where bleaching and colorreduction are desired; and bleaching nail stains.

Skin, hair, lip and nail pigmentation is determined by the level ofmelanin present in the epidermis, hair fiber and nail bed. Threedifferent types of melanin are present in the epidermis: DHI-melanin,DHICA-melanin and pheomelanin. The different types of melanin vary incolor or shade. DHI-melanin is the darkest, and is blackish in color.DHICA-melanin is brownish in color. Pheomelanin is the lightest, and isreddish in color.

Melanin is synthesized in specialized organelles called melanosomeswithin pigment-producing cells (melanocytes). Melanocytes respond tostimuli to regulate melanin synthesis.

Many substances have been applied to the skin to lighten the skin. Suchsubstances include hydroquinone, kojic acid, licorice and/or itsderivatives, ascorbic acid and/or its derivatives, arbutin, bearberry,Glycyrrhiza glabra and its derivatives, Chlorella vulgaris extract,perilla extract, and coconut fruit extract. Perilla extract is disclosedas a whitening agent in U.S. Pat. No. 5,980,904 and JapanesePublications Nos. 07025742, 07187989, 10265322, 2001163759, and2001181173. Coconut fruit extract is disclosed as a whitening agent inJapanese Patent No. 2896815B2. An extract of the spongy mass of coconuttissue is employed in a tanning sunscreen composition in U.S. Pat. No.5,756,099.

Active ingredients derived from plants and plant seeds have beenemployed in topical compositions for a myriad of medicinal, therapeuticand cosmetic purposes. Such active ingredients can be obtained fromvarious parts of a plant such as seeds, needles, leaves, roots, bark,cones, stems, rhizomes, callus cells, protoplasts, organs and organsystems, and meristems. Such active ingredients are incorporated in suchcompositions in a variety of forms. Such forms include a pure orsemi-pure component, a solid or liquid extract or derivative, or a solidplant matter. Plant matter may be incorporated in a variety of subformssuch as whole, minced, ground or crushed.

Extracts of Azadirachta indica, the neem tree, as well as other plantsin the family Meliaceae, are known to have insecticidal activity.Azadirachtin, a major active ingredient of many of these extracts, is aliminoid of the tetranortriterpenoid type useful in commercialinsecticides. Tetranortriterpenoids have been shown to be a potentinsect growth regulator and feeding deterrent. Methods for producingazadirachtin concentrates from neem seed materials are known in the art.U.S. Pat. No. 5,698,423 to Holowach-Keller et al. is directed to amethod for producing azadiractin by cell culture of Azadiracta indica.

Extracts of Glycyrrhiza glabra linn. are derived from the herb, whichgrows perennially in subtropical and warm temperate regions. Glycyrrhizaglabra linn., commonly known as licorice, has been used in foodsweetening. The root extract contains glycyrrhizic acid andglycyrrhetinic acid. The glycyrrhizic acid is known to have ananti-inflammatory effect. The extract of the licorice root andglycyrrhetinic acid have been shown to have desoxycorticosterone andACTH-like effects. It has been used as a demulcent and mild expectorant.In vitro studies have shown the antiviral properties of bothglycyrrhetinic acid and glycyrrhizin (See Badam, “In Vitro Studies onthe Effect of Glycyrrhizin from Glycyrrhiza glabra linn. on Some RNA andDNA Viruses,” Ind. J. Pharma., 26, 194-199 (1994)). The extracts ofGlycyrrhiza glabra linn. can be extracted by a method disclosed in U.S.Pat. No. 6,248,309 to Iyer, et al.

Extracts of Morinda citrifolia are derived from the Indian Mulberryplant. Morinda citrifolia has been used in compositions for reducingoxysterol buildup in the blood and normalizing cholesterol and bloodpressure in mammals as set forth in U.S. Pat. No. 6,387,370 to Yegorova.A method of extracting and purifying an essential oil product of Morindacitrifolia is disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 6,417,157 to Wadsworth et al.

Extracts of tomato glycolipid are derived from tomato fruit. Methods ofextracting and synthesizing tomato glycolipids are disclosed in U.S.Pat. No. 4,745,186 to Mudd et al.

Extracts of Butea frondosa, also known as Butea monosperma, are derivedfrom an East Indian deciduous tree. Butea frondosa has been used as anastringent and in treating diarrhea, dysentery, and pyrosis. Use ofButea frondosa for its ocular anti-inflammatory activity has recentlybeen tested (See Mengi, “Evaluation of Ocular Anti-Inflammatory Activityof Butea frondosa,” Ind. J. Pharma. 27, 116-119 (1995)).

Extracts of Naringi crenulata, also known as Limonia crenulata, arederived from a small tree indigenous to East India.

Stenoloma chusana is a perennial herb found in southeast Asia. Extractsfrom this plant are known to have uses in treating colds, influenza,bronchitis, burns, cuts, and skin sores (See A Barefoot Doctor's Manual,Running Press, Philadelphia, Pa., p. 638).

Heretofore, these extracts have not been used as an active ingredient ina composition for the purpose of lightening skin, lips, hair or nails.

It would be desirable to have compositions that employ new biologicalextracts that provide an improved aesthetic appearance to the skin,lips, hair and/or nails, especially that provide effective levels oflightening, bleaching, hypopigmenting, whitening and/or depigmenting(hereinafter referred to individually and collectively as “lightening”or “lighten”). It would further be desirable to have compositions thatare effective in lightening hair, skin, lips, and/or nails and requireminimal concentrations of the biological material.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to provide cosmeticcompositions that improve the aesthetic appearance of skin, lips, hairand/or nails including remediating the effects of aging.

It is another object of the present invention to provide compositionsfor lightening of hair, skin, lips, and/or nails having an active plantextract, preferably an active biological plant extract.

It is yet another object of the present invention to provide suchcompositions for improving the appearance, especially by lightening, ofskin, lips, hair and/or nails in which the compositions having aneffective amount of an active plant extract.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide suchcompositions for improving the appearance, especially by lightening, ofhair, skin, lips, and/or nails, in which such compositions are suitablefor topical application to the hair, skin, lips, and/or nails.

It is still yet another object of the present invention to provide suchcompositions for improving the appearance of skin and lips byameliorating inflammation of the skin and/or lips, includinginflammation induced by or capable of inducement by external agents.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide compositionsfor lightening hair, skin, lips, and/or nails that is suitable for oralingestion.

It is a still further object of the present invention to provide methodsof lightening hair, skin, lips, and/or nails that include topicallyapplying such compositions to hair, skin, lips and/or nails.

These and other objects and advantages of the present invention areprovided by compositions for improving the appearance, especially bylightening, of hair, skin, lips, and/or nails or by reducing,preventing, or treating inflammation of the skin or lips, includinginflammation occasioned by ailment, affliction or disease of the skin orlips, or inflammation induced or inducible by an external agent, inwhich such compositions have an effective amount of at least one of thefollowing active extracts: Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenolomachusana, or any combinations thereof.

There is also provided compositions for improving the appearance,especially by lightening, of skin, lips, hair and/or nails or byreducing, preventing, or treating inflammation of the skin or lips,including inflammation occasioned by ailment, affliction or disease ofthe skin or lips, or induced or inducible by an external agent, in whichsuch compositions have an effective amount of at least one of the activeextracts, and an effective amount of at least one of the followingadditional extracts: Azadirachta indica, Glycyrrhiza glabra Linn.,Morinda citrifolia, tomato glycolipid, or any combinations thereof.

The present invention also provides methods for improving theappearance, especially by lightening, of hair, skin, lips, and/or nailsor by reducing, preventing, or treating inflammation of the skin orlips, including inflammation occasioned by ailment, affliction ordisease of the skin or lips, or induced or inducible by an externalagent, comprising topically applying any one of the compositions of thepresent invention. The present invention also provides methods forlightening hair, skin, lips, and/or nails by orally ingesting any one ofthe compositions of the present invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides compositions for improving the appearanceof hair, skin, lips, and/or nails, especially by lightening hair, skin,lips, and/or nails. The compositions are preferably topical compositionsfor application to the hair, skin, lips, and/or nails. However, thepresent compositions can be for oral ingestion. In all applications, thecompositions result in a lightening of the hair, skin, lips and/ornails. The compositions of the present invention also provide ananti-inflammatory benefit when applied to skin or lips, so that theappearance of skin is improved.

The compositions have one or more of the following extracts, as anactive biological plant extract or ingredient(s) or in an active amount:Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenoloma chusana, or anycombinations thereof. It has been unexpectedly found that these activeextracts improve the aesthetic appearance of hair, skin, lips and/ornails and, in particular, reduce pigmentation and lighten hair, skin,lips, and/or nails. More particularly, these active extracts have beenunexpectedly shown to decrease melanin production and decreasehypermelanocytic states.

It has now been also found that the addition of at least one of theseactive extracts, namely Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenolomachusana, or any combinations thereof, to at least one of the followingother or additional extracts, namely Azadirachta indica, Glycyrrhizaglabra linn., Morinda citrifolia, tomato glycolipid, or any combinationsthereof, can reduce melanin pigmentation of hair, skin, lips and/ornails.

Lightening of hair, skin, lips and/or nails, as used in the presentinvention, means one or more of the following benefits is achieved.These benefits include bleaching hyperpigmented hair, skin, lips, and/ornails; reducing age spots; evening or optimizing skin discoloration;improving the appearance of dark circles under the eyes; treatingmelasma, cholasma, freckles, after-burn scars, and post-injuryhyperpigmentation; bleaching hair on the scalp, legs, face, and otherareas where bleaching and color reduction are desired; and bleachingnail stains.

Most generally, the present invention also provides topical compositionscontaining an effective amount of one or more of the active ingredientsof the present invention for application to the skin to improve theaesthetic appearance of skin. These benefits are manifest in any of thefollowing: reduction in pore size; improvement in skin tone, radiance,clarity and/or tautness; promotion of anti-oxidant activity; improvementin skin firmness, plumpness, suppleness, and/or softness; improvement inprocollagen and/or collagen production; improvement in skin textureand/or promotion of retexturization; improvement in skin barrier repairand/or function; improvement in appearance of skin contours; restorationof skin luster and/or brightness; replenishment of essential nutrientsand/or constituents in the skin decreased by aging and/or menopause;improvement in communication among skin cells; increase in cellproliferation and/or multiplication; increase in skin cell metabolismdecreased by aging and/or menopause; improvement in skin moisturization;promotion and/or acceleration of cell turnover; enhancement of skinthickness; reducing skin sensitivity; increase in skin elasticity and/orresiliency; and enhancement of exfoliation, with or without the use ofalpha or beta hydroxy acids, keto acids or other exfoliants.

Collaterally, the present invention also provides for topicalcompositions for application to the skin that provide an anti-agingbenefit. The compositions have an effective amount of one or more activeingredients of the present invention, which, when applied to human skin,prevent, treat and/or ameliorate the various signs of aging at the areaor portion of skin to which they are applied. In particular, the presentinvention provides compositions and methods for treating skin toprevent, inhibit, reduce and/or ameliorate the signs of dermatologicalaging due to, for example, chronological aging, hormonal aging, and/orphotoaging. Such signs of aging include, but are not limited to skinfragility; loss of collagen and/or elastin; estrogen imbalance in skin;skin atrophy; appearance and/or depth of lines and/or wrinkles,including fine lines; skin discoloration, including dark eye circles;skin sagging; skin fatigue and/or stress, e.g., skin breakout due toenvironmental stress, such as pollution and/or temperature changes; skindryness; skin flakiness; cellular aging; loss of skin tone, elasticityand/or luster; loss of skin firmness; poor skin texture; loss of skinelasticity and/or resiliency; and thin skin.

In its broadest aspects, the present invention is not limited by anyparticular characterization of the physiological and/or chemical effectsof the active extract or agents. However, the active extract used in thepresent compositions and methods are believed to reduce melanin inhyperpigmented areas by decreasing dark pigment formation in melanocytesand shifting the melanin synthesis path towards light melanin formationby decreasing melanocyte pH, and/or direct chelation of metals involvedin melanin synthesis or staining, for example, copper.

In another aspect of the present invention, the topically appliedcompositions of the present invention inhibit, mitigate, ameliorate, andprevent skin and lip irritation or inflammation occasioned by ailment,illness or disease, or induced by external factors such as environmentalagents, chemical agents, medicinal agents and cosmetic agents. Skinirritation thus may result from exposure to wind, heat or cold, airpollutants, and cigarette smoke. Cosmetic and pharmaceutical productsmay have ingredients or combinations of ingredients that produce visibleskin irritation as a side effect. Susceptibility to skin irritation mayvary from individual to individual, and frequently limits the use ofcertain products or the use of concentrations of active ingredients thatmight produce more advantageous results at higher levels but for theproduction of skin irritation as a side-effect. Skin irritation symptomsor conditions include, but are not limited to, erythema, psoriasis,edema, hyper-pigmentation, hypo-pigmentation, acne, warts, wheeling,blotchiness, uneven skin tone, scaling, flaking, itching or pruritus,tightness, burning, prickling, stinging, tingling, numbing, windirritation, temperature irritation, smoke irritation, chemicalirritation, or any combinations thereof. Accordingly, the method of thepresent invention provides that an effective amount from about 0.001 wt% to about 20 wt % by weight of the composition, is effective in thetreatment of one or more of the following: reducing or preventing lossof collagen; improving skin firmness/plumpness; improving skin texture;decreasing/preventing lines and wrinkles; improving skin tone; enhancingskin thickness; decreasing pore size; reducing skin discoloration;reducing acne; reducing psoriasis; reducing skin sensitivity; andreducing warts.

Cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical products commonly have anactive agent or agents that produce skin irritation. Examples of activeagents having skin irritation as a side effect include, but are notlimited to, hydroxylated acids and their derivatives, α-hydroxy acids(i.e., lactic, glycolic, citric, malic, tartaric, mandelic, gluconic,methyl lactic, phenyl lactic, atrolactic, glyceric, benzilic,z-hydroxyheptanoic, z-hydroxyoctanoic and any combinations thereof),β-hydroxy acids (i.e., salicylic, 5-n-octanoylsalicylic and otherderivatives of salicylic), retinoids (retinoic acid and its derivatives;retinol and its esters); anthralins (i.e., dioxyanthranol), anthranoids,peroxides (i.e., benzoyl peroxide), minoxidil, lithium salts,antimetabolites, vitamin D and its derivatives, hair dyes or colorants(i.e., para-phenylenediamine and its derivatives; aminophenols),alcoholic perfuming solutions (i.e., perfumes; toilet waters;aftershaves; deodorants), antiperspirant agents (i.e., some aluminumsalts), depilatory or hair permanent active agents (i.e., thiols),depigmentating agents (i.e., hydroquinone), and some insecticide activeagents. If topical products had anti-irritant protection, it would bepossible to increase the amount of the normal irritant active agent(i.e., AHA or BHA) in the product without producing unpleasant skinirritation or irritation side effects. The use of the presentcompositions makes it possible to improve the efficacy of cosmetic,dermatological or pharmaceutical products by increasing theconcentration or amount of cosmetic, dermatological, or pharmaceuticalactive agent as compared to the amount or concentration of such agentnormally used.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the composition,which improves the appearance of and, in particular, lightens hair,skin, lips, and/or nails, has an effective amount of at least one of thefollowing active extracts: Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenolomachusana, or any combinations thereof. An effective amount means that theone or more active extracts are present at about 0.001 percentage byweight (wt %) to about 20 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition. The one or more active extracts are present preferably atabout 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt %, and more preferably at about 0.5 wt %to about 5 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. Mostpreferably, the one or more active extracts are present in an amountabout 1 wt % or less based on the total weight of the composition.

As stated above, in another preferred embodiment of the presentinvention, the composition for lightening hair, skin, lips, and/or nailshas an effective amount of at least one of the active extracts, and oneor more of the following other or additional extracts: Azadirachtaindica, Glycyrrhiza glabra linn., Morinda citrifolia, tomato glycolipid,or any combinations thereof, to synergistically enhance the whiteningactivity of the composition.

The one or more of the additional extracts are present in an amountabout 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition. Preferably, the one or more additional extracts in anamount about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition. Most preferably, the one or more additional extracts arepresent in an amount equal to or less than 1 wt % based on the totalweight of the composition.

When combined with one or more of the additional extracts, the activeextracts are present in the present compositions in an amount about0.001 wt % to about 10 wt %, and the one or more additional extracts inan amount about 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt %, based on the total weight ofthe composition. Preferably, the active extracts are present in anamount about 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt %, and the one or more additionalextracts in an amount about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % based on the totalweight of the composition. Most preferably, the one or more activeextracts are present in an amount equal to or less than about 1 wt %,and the one or more additional extracts are present in an amount equalto or less than 1 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the present invention can be used with a carrier orvehicle. The vehicle can be altered to be appropriate for the specificuse of the composition without altering the beneficial lighteningeffects achieved by the use of the one or more active extracts set forthabove. The vehicles that can be used in compositions of the presentinvention include, but are not limited to, water; vegetable oils; esterssuch as octyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate;ethers such as dicapryl ether and dimethyl isosorbide; alcohols such asethanol and isopropanol; fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, stearylalcohol and behenyl alcohol; isoparaffins such as isooctane, isododecaneand isohexadecane; silicone oils such as dimethicones and polysiloxanes;hydrocarbon oils such as mineral oil, petrolatum, isoeicosane andpolyisobutene; polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerin, butyleneglycol, pentylene glycol and hexylene glycol; or any combinationsthereof.

Preferably, the vehicle is present in an amount about 50 wt % to about99.8 wt % based on the total weight of the composition. More preferably,the vehicle is present in an amount about 80 wt % to about 99.5 wt %based on the total weight of the composition.

The present compositions may also include one or more of the followingingredients: anesthetic, anti-allergenic, antifungal, antimicrobial,anti-inflammatory agent, antioxidant, antiseptic, chelating agent,colorant, depigmenting agent, emollient, emulsifier, exfollient, filmformer, fragrance, humectant, insect repellent, lubricant, moisturizer,pharmaceutical agent, photostabilizing agent, preservative, skinprotectant, skin penetration enhancer, sunscreen, stabilizer,surfactant, thickener, viscosity modifier, vitamin, or any combinationsthereof. Preferably, these ingredients are present in an amount about0.001 wt % to about 10 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition.

The present compositions may also include skin whiteners. Some examplesof such suitable skin whiteners include, but are not limited to, one ormore of the following: ascorbyl glucoside, vitamin C, retinol and/or itsderivatives, arbutin, bearberry extract, rumex crispus extract, milkproteins including hydrolyzed milk proteins,N,N,S-tris(carboxymethyl)cysteamine, oleanolic acids, perilla oils,placenta extract, saxifragia sarmentosa, perilla extract, junipericacid, TDPA, ligusticum chiangxiong hort., asmunda japonica thunb.,stellaria medica (L.) cyr., sedum sarmentosum bunge, ligusticum lucidumAit., ilex purpurea hassk, emblica, apigenin, ascorbyl palmitol, carrubapolyphenols, hesperitin, hydroquinone, inabata polyphenol,isoliquirtigenin, kaempherol-7-neohesperidose, L-mimosine, luteolin,oil-soluble licorice extract P-T(40), oxa acid, phenyl isothiocyanate,cococin, silymarin, T4CA, teterahydro curcumin, unitrienol,ursolic-oleanolic acid, UVA/URSI, or any combinations thereof.

The compositions of the present invention can be formulated in anysuitable product form. Such product forms include, but are not limitedto, aerosol spray, cream, dispersion, emulsion, foam, gel, liquid,lotion, mousse, ointment, patch, pomade, powder, pump spray, solid,solution, stick, and towelette.

The present compositions provide for products, especially cosmeticproducts that improve lightening of skin, nail, lips, and/or hair. Also,the present compositions can be formulated to deliver a consistent levelof an active ingredient, or blend of ingredients, so that a desiredcosmetic effect is achieved.

The following are examples of the present invention.

EXAMPLE 1

Melanosome Uptake Assay (Stenolama Chusana and Naringi Crenulata) wasdone as follows. Confluent cultures of B16 melanocytes produce moderatelevels of melanosomes. However, to induce elevated melanosome productionin this cell line, semi-confluent (60%) cultures of B16 cells weretreated for approximately thirty-six (36) hours with normal growthmedium supplemented with 10 mM ammonium chloride (final conc.). Themedium was then aspirated and the hypermelanotic cells were washed (2×2ml) with distilled water to provide a hypotonic stress to the cells. Analiquot (2 ml) of a hypotonic lysis solution (0.02% NP-40 in water) wasadded to each plate and the plates were incubated for approximately five(5) minutes at room temperature. Following verification of cell lysisusing light microscopy, the cellular material from three (3) cultureplates were pooled in a 15 ml conical tube and centrifuged (200×g) for 5minutes to remove cellular debris. The resulting supernatant containingmelanosomes was transferred to a clean 15 ml conical tube andcentrifuged (850×g) for twenty (20) minutes. The resulting pelletcontaining the isolated melanosomes were resuspended in 1 ml ofPhosphate Buffered Saline (PBS) and stored at 4° C. until used.

The treatment of keratinocytes with melanosomes was measured as follows.The normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEKs) (available fromClonetics, Inc.) were plated in the wells of 24-well plates at a densityof 200,000 cells/well. Approximately twenty-four (24) hours later, thegrowth medium was replaced with 1 ml of the appropriate growth medium(i.e., DMEM/KGM-2) containing the melanosome preparation with or withoutadditional treatment conditions. The cells were treated with differentconcentrations of perilla leaf extract (powder form or aqueous form).The cells were then returned to the incubator for approximately one andone-half (1.5) hours. For these studies, each well of keratinocytes wastreated with the amount of melanosomes isolated from a single plate ofB16 cells.

In some experiments, the 24-well plates of treated keratinocytes werecentrifuged for 15 minutes at 1,000 rpm to facilitate the deposition ofthe melanosomes onto the surface membranes of the keratinocytes. Theplates were then returned to the incubator for 1.25 hours.

For the analysis of melanosome uptake, the cells in each well ofkeratinocytes were rinsed (3×1 ml) with PBS, removed from the plateusing trypsin/EDTA, and washed with PBS. To analyze the uptake ofmelanosomes by the keratinocytes, the internalized melanin was extractedfrom the cells according to a modified method of Bessou-Touya, S., etal. (Chimeric human epidermal reconstructs to study the role ofmelanocytes and keratinocytes in pigmentation and photoprotection. J.Invest. Dermatol., 111:1103-1108, 1998) and quantifiedspectrophoto-metrically by determining the melanin-specific absorbanceat 405 nm.

The melanocytes synthesize melanin and deposits onto melanosomes. Visualmanifestation of skin color is due to presence of melanin/melanosomes inkeratinocytes. Melanosomes are taken up by keratinocytes and the rate ofuptake, retention and processing of melanosomes in the keratinocytes isa key determinant of skin color. The internalized melanin value reflectsthe amount of melanin/melanosome uptake and retention by thekeratinocytes. Thus, the lower internalized melanin values, particularlyinternalized melanin values that are less than the control with melanin,indicate that melanin uptake by the keratinocytes has been inhibited.

The results are as follows. At 0.5% volume/volume, Stenolama Chusanashowed a 44% decrease in melanosome uptake as compared to the positivecontrol. At 0.5% volume/volume, Naringi Crenulata showed a 39% decreasein melanosome uptake as compared to the positive control.

EXAMPLE 2

For B16 assay (Naringi Crenulata), the actives were tested in monolayercell culture of B16 mouse melanoma cells. These cells constitutivelyproduce melanin and are a model system for monitoring the inhibition ofmelanin synthesis. The cells were seeded into 96-well plates at 5×10³cells/well and culture attached for twenty-four (24) hours. The mediawere then replaced with fresh media containing plant extracts. Eachactive was applied to six (6) wells of B16 cells on 96-well plates toallow statistical analysis. The cells were dosed with medium alone asthe negative control, or the test article for seven (7) days. The plateswere read at 540 nM to detect melanin formation. An increase inabsorbance at 540 nM reflects a higher melanin content in the well.

At 0.05% weight/volume, Naringi Crenulata showed a 61% decrease inpigmentation as compared to the positive control

EXAMPLE 3

For ¹⁴C-Dopa incorporation (Butea Frondosa), melanogenic activity wasmeasured by measuring the radioactive melanin formed as ¹⁴C DOPA isconverted to the acid insoluble melanin biopolymer in B16F10 melanomacells. Cells were seeded into 24-well plates at a density of 2×10⁴ cellsper well and cultured attached for forty-eight (48) hours. The mediawere then replaced with fresh media containing plant extracts and 0.2μCi of ¹⁴C DOPA. The cells were further incubated for 24 hours. Afterincubation, media were discarded and the cells were rinsed with PBS,lysed by adding 0.125 ml of 1N NaOH and incubated at 37° C. for 30minutes, and then neutralized with 0.025 ml of 5N HCL. The resultingcell lysates were transferred into liquid scintillation vials and mixedwith scintillation cocktail, and the radioactivity was determined byscintillation counter. A portion of the cell lysates was kept and theprotein content was determined by Lowry method. The results werenormalized to the amount of protein determined for each assay.

At 0.005% weight/volume, Butea frondosa showed a 22% decrease in ¹⁴CDOPA conversion as compared to the positive control.

EXAMPLE 4

Various natural plant extracts of the present invention were evaluatedfor inhibition of the TNF-alpha protein in an in vitro studies asdescribed below.

TNF-alpha Inhibition Protocol

To test the efficacy of Stenolama chusana Ching., Naringi Crenulata, andButea frondosa Roxb. for the inhibition of TNF-alpha production, anenzyme linked immunoassay (ELISA) commercially available from R&DSystems was employed.

This assay employed the quantitative sandwich enzyme immunoassaytechnique in which a monoclonal antibody specific for TNF-alpha has beenpre-coated onto a microtiter plate. Culture supernatants from cellsexposed to active materials were pipetted into separate wells. TNF-alphain the supernatant was bound to the plate via the immobilized antibody.After several washes to remove unbound antibody, an enzyme-linkedpolyclonal antibody specific for TNF-alpha was added to each well.Following a wash to remove unbound antibody-enzyme reagent, a substratesolution was added to the wells. Color develops in proportion to theamount of TNF-alpha bound in the initial step. The results of the testsare provided in Table I. TABLE I Results of In Vitro Tests TNF-alphaPlant Extract Inhibition Stenolama chusana Ching. +++ NaringiCrenulata + Butea frondosa Roxb. +++Legend:+, ++, +++, ++++ Significant inhibition (degree of inhibition quantifiedby number of plus signs)(0) No change

These in vitro studies show that the compositions of the presentinvention containing an extract of: Stenolama chusana Ching., NaringiCrenulata, and Butea frondosa Roxb. provide benefits to the skin byinhibiting TNF-alpha protein production, whereby the signs of subjectivediscomfort and/or irritation caused by cosmetic, pharmaceutical ordermatological products would be reduced, thus providing an aestheticimprovement in skin appearance.

EXAMPLE 5

Stenolama chusana ching. and Butea fondosa were evaluated in variousbiopsy studies in which the natural plant extract as set forth below wasincorporated into a cosmetically suitable vehicle and applied to thevolar forearm of a participant in the study, at a dose of 2 mg/cm². Theforearm area to which the extract preparation was applied was thencovered with a semi-occlusive patch. This procedure was repeated for 3weeks, 5 days per week. At the end of the treatment the sites wereanesthetized with lidocaine and 2 mm punch biopsies were taken from thetreated and one untreated control site. Biopsies were fixed in formalin,embedded in paraffin, sectioned, and stained for relevant endpoints.

For Stenolama chusana ching., 6 of 9 panelists showed increase inkeratinocyte proliferation (visualized by the antibody to KI67), and 5of 9 panelists showed increase in viable epidermal thickness.

For Butea frondosa provided, 5 of 8 panelists showed increase inkeratinocyte proliferation (visualized by the antibody to KI67), and 5of 8 panelists showed increase in viable epidermal thickness.

It should be understood that the foregoing description is onlyillustrative of the present invention. Various alternatives andmodifications can be devised by those skilled in the art withoutdeparting from the invention. Accordingly, the present invention isintended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and varianceswhich fall within the scope of the appended claims.

1. A composition for improving the aesthetic appearance of hair, skin,lips and/or nails, comprising: an effective amount of at least oneactive extract selected from the group consisting of Butea frondosa,Naringi crenulata, Stenoloma chusana, and any combinations thereof. 2.The composition of claim 1, wherein the at least one active extract ispresent in an amount about 0.001 wt % to about 20 wt % based on thetotal weight of the composition.
 3. The composition of claim 1, whereinthe at least one active extract is present in an amount about 0.05 wt %to about 10 wt % based on the total weight of the composition.
 4. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the at least one active extract ispresent in an amount about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % based on the totalweight of the composition.
 5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the atleast one active extract is present in an amount about 1 wt % or lessbased the total weight of the composition.
 6. The composition of claim1, wherein the composition is a topical composition suitable forapplication to hair, skin, lips, and/or nails.
 7. The composition ofclaim 6, further comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
 8. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the skin or lips has reduced irritationand/or irritation is prevented when the composition is applied to skinor lips.
 9. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is anoral composition.
 10. The composition of claim 1, further comprising aneffective amount of at least one additional extract selected from thegroup consisting of Azadirachta indica, Glycyrrhiza glabra linn.,Morinda citrifolia, tomato glycolipid, and any combinations thereof. 11.The composition of claim 10, wherein the at least one additional extractis present in an amount about 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt % based on thetotal weight of the composition.
 12. The composition of claim 11,wherein the at least one additional extract is present in an amountabout 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 13. The composition of claim 10, wherein the at least oneactive extract is topically applied to skin or lips to effect areduction in or to prevent irritation or inflammation.
 14. Thecomposition of claim 1, wherein the at least one active extract istopically applied to skin or lips to effect a reduction in or to preventirritation or inflammation.
 15. A method of lightening hair, skin, lipsand/or nails, comprising topically applying to the skin, hair, lipsand/or nails an effective amount of the composition of claim
 1. 16. Themethod of claim 15, wherein the at least one active extract is presentin an amount about 0.001 wt % to about 20 wt % based on the total weightof the composition.
 17. The method of claim 15, wherein the at least oneactive extract is present in an amount about 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt %based on the total weight of the composition.
 18. The method of claim15, wherein the at least one active extract is present in an amountabout 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 19. A method of lightening hair, skin, lips and/or nails,comprising orally ingesting an effective amount of the composition ofclaim
 1. 20. A method of lightening hair, skin, lips and/or nails,comprising topically applying to the skin, hair and/or nails aneffective amount of the composition of claim
 10. 21. The method of claim20, wherein the at least one additional extract is present in an amountabout 0.05 wt % to about 10 wt % based on the total weight of thecomposition.
 22. The method of claim 20, wherein the at least oneadditional extract is present in an amount about 0.5 wt % to about 5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.
 23. A method oflightening hair, skin, lips and/or nails, comprising orally ingesting aneffective amount of the composition of claim
 10. 24. A method forimproving the aesthetic appearance of skin, lips, hair and/or nailscomprising: topically applying to the skin, lips, hair and/or nails aneffective amount of at least one active extract selected from the groupconsisting of Butea frondosa, Naringi crenulata, Stenoloma chusana, andany combinations thereof.
 25. The method of claim 24, wherein saideffective amount is effective to provide an anti-aging benefit to theskin, lips, hair and/or nails.
 26. The method of claim 24, wherein theeffective amount is from about 0.001 wt % to about 20 wt % by weight ofthe composition, and is effective in the treatment of one or more of thefollowing: a) decreasing/preventing lines and wrinkles; b) enhancingskin thickness; and c) reducing skin discoloration.
 27. The method ofclaim 24, wherein the effective amount is from about 0.001 wt % to about20 wt % by weight of the composition, and is effective in the treatmentof one or more of the following: a) reducing or preventing loss ofcollagen; b) improving skin firmness/plumpness; c) improving skintexture; d) decreasing/preventing lines and wrinkles; e) improving skintone; f) enhancing skin thickness; g) decreasing pore size; h) reducingskin discoloration; i) reducing acne; j) reducing psoriasis; k) reducingskin sensitivity; and l) reducing warts.